Take your game up a notch
Copper John, clean and purdy |
The first fly I tied was back in high school in the 80's. I didn't really get "into it" until a few years later when I got my first kit. My first flies were ants and mosquitoes for the high country of north eastern Oregon. I caught a lot of fish on those flies. And they were as ugly as sin. I still caught lots of fish.
So all tolled I've been at this game of fly tying for near on 25 years. But looking back now, I'd say I spent a good half of that time tying super-crappy flies. It wasn't until I saw my future cohort-in-crime, Cheech, tying at a fly shop demo (he'd only been at it for a couple of years) that I said "holy crap, I need to pay more attention to what I'm doing" as his flies were impeccably tied and super well-proportioned. I literally went home that night and started to pay more attention. I chucked out a bunch of flies and buckled down to tie better looking patterns. Once I really started to look at what I was doing, critiquing myself and focusing on what I was doing, I found I dialed in the quality a lot more consistently.
Now, at the end of the day, my crappy flies still caught lots of fish, so I'm not proposing this will make or break your fishing success, but let's face it -- most of us would like to tie flies to be proud of. If you still don't care about that, go ahead and navigate on over to Netflix for some Walking Dead episodes. Otherwise, here are some things I learned and what I think will help you take your flies to a new level:
1. Pay Attention! This is a simple yet overlooked one. Before, during and after you tie a fly, look at it and make sure you're doing all the stuff you need to be doing to churn out quality. Inspect each and every fly and look at what you can do to make it better and/or more like the previous ones (assuming they were good). In other words, actively be aware of the next 4 things!
2. Quality Materials. One of the most over-looked aspects of tying good looking flies is to make sure you use good materials. One of the reasons my parachute patterns really sucked hind teat at first was because I was using an incredibly nasty India Rooster neck. It wasn't until I ponied up the investment to get some good hackle that those types of patterns really took off for me. Same happened with comparadun hair, goose/turkey biots, thread and even hooks to some extent. And the list goes on. So if you look at a fly after you tie it and it's looking gnarly because the material is either garbage, too big or the wrong color, swap it out for something that works best for what you're doing. You might be surprised at how good materials can make a difference on how your patterns look!
Cheech was proud of this brassie ;) |
The bad example on the right shows Cheech needs to get a handle on his proportions. Don't be Cheech.
4. Critique and Judge Yourself. So you'll finish up a batch of fancy Copper John's, you'll admire them, you'll want to take pictures of them and share with your buddies on Facebook. Then you'll stick them in your box to fish someday and forget about them. However, instead, at some point, take the time to look at them a few hours or even days distant from the time you tied them. Look at some Copper John's online or wherever and compare yours. Do they still look as good as you thought? How can you do better? Make a note and tie up a couple of new ones to compare. Almost guaranteed, you'll end up finding something. So don't be afraid to judge yourself, live with a few failures and improve.
5. Practice. This is probably the most important of all. You can hit all of the above suggestions but if you don't buckle down and tie flies consistently, you'll see little improvement. And practice would include a few of these things here:
- Tie every day if possible. Yep, just do it. If you can't tie every day, tie as often as possible. It's not like riding a bike.
- Tie at least 5 or 6 of each pattern you tie every time you tie it. I often find myself junking the first couple of flies for a new pattern sometimes because I haven't gotten down the proportions and little nuances of the pattern yet. Consistency is the key!
- If you're not good at parachutes, practice on a throw-away hook with bigger sizes. Cut it off and do it again. Don't waste tying a whole fly if you stink at only one particular method or part of it. Using a bigger hook will help get the hang of it before down-sizing.
And now you're a pro....sponsorships available!
Proportions on drys are important because tail length, hackle length and body diameter affect how that fly will float. Good read Curtis.
ReplyDeleteSponsorship's! Sign me up. What does a guy have to do to get sponsored?
ReplyDeleteWe only sponsor people with a full head of hair. Sorry bro.
DeleteAwe come on......God made me bald it wasn't a choice......can you find it in your soft accepting heart to find a place for a very special and talented "BALD" fly tier to be a part of your sponsorship team?
DeleteNice post!
ReplyDeleteI'd like to be sponsored but what are the requirements to be sponsored? Catch a rattlebass barehanded?
ReplyDeleteI notice a lot of folks don't really know what "quality" materials actually are. I've been tying almost 50 years now & tie a wide variety of flies & use a wide range of materials. I've yet to find a material I can't use. Your example of the India neck is a good one. I tie a simple little foam ant pattern & use India neck hackle for adding legs. I save my Whiting hackle for flies that need it. Sure, I could use it for that ant pattern, but why would I when the India hackle works fine for that pattern? If I can't find the correct size in the India hackle, I'll go the Whiting.
ReplyDeleteI tie many bass & saltwater patterns & use a lot of strung hackle. Is it poor quality because it's strung? It is if I was trying to tie dry flies with it, but for the purpose I intend it's ideal. Again, I can use the bigger feathers from a Whiting saddle, and do for some flies, but the strung hackle works as well for many of the patterns I use.
It's always good to learn the difference in quality, but also good to know what to use & when to use it and still produce a better quality fly!
Jim